Choosing your first kimono is an exciting step into a world of incredible artistry, history, and personal expression. But with so many styles, fabrics, and terms, it can also feel a little overwhelming. This guide is here to walk you through everything you need to know, from finding the right fit to understanding the difference between a real silk treasure and a convincing replica.
We will cover the essential factors: fit, fabric, budget, and authenticity. By the end, you’ll feel confident and ready to select a beautiful garment you can wear with respect and joy.
First, Some Kimono Basics
Before diving into the details, let’s clarify a few key terms you’ll encounter.
- Kimono: The word “kimono” literally means “thing to wear.” It’s a T-shaped, full-length robe that wraps left over right. Traditional kimonos are often made of silk or cotton and worn for special occasions like weddings, tea ceremonies, or festivals.
- Yukata: Think of a yukata as the kimono’s casual, summer cousin. It’s typically made of unlined cotton or synthetic fabric, making it lighter and more breathable. Yukata are perfect for summer festivals, relaxing at a traditional inn (ryokan), or as a beautiful bathrobe. They are an excellent, affordable starting point.
- Haori: This is a hip- or thigh-length jacket worn over a kimono. It’s not belted shut and adds a layer of formality or warmth. Modern fashion has embraced the haori as a stylish, versatile jacket to wear with everyday clothes.
Finding the Perfect Fit
Unlike Western clothing, kimonos are not sold in standard sizes like small, medium, or large. Fit is determined by your height and, to a lesser extent, your hip measurement.
Key Measurements to Check
- Length (Mitake): A kimono’s length should be roughly equal to your height. The excess fabric is folded at the waist and hidden by the obi (sash), a fold called the ohashori. For a casual yukata, the length can be closer to your ankle without this fold.
- Sleeve Length (Sodetake): The bottom of the sleeve should fall somewhere around your wrist when your arms are down. Long, flowing sleeves are a feature of furisode, a formal kimono for unmarried women.
- Width (Mihaba): The kimono should wrap around your body comfortably, with the front panels overlapping. When you hold the center back seam against your spine, the edges of the robe should wrap to your hip bones. Most kimonos can accommodate a range of body shapes.
- Sleeve Drop (Yuki): This is the measurement from the center seam of your neck to the edge of the sleeve. It should end near your wrist bone. If it’s too short, it can look ill-fitting, but vintage pieces often have a shorter yuki.
When trying on a kimono, make sure the left side is wrapped over the right side. Wrapping right over left is reserved for dressing the deceased for burial—a crucial piece of etiquette to remember.
A Guide to Kimono Fabrics
The material of a kimono dictates its formality, seasonality, and care requirements.
- Silk (Shoken): The most traditional and luxurious fabric. It’s smooth, drapes beautifully, and is used for formal kimonos like furisode and tomesode. Silk is a year-round fabric, but different weaves are used for different seasons. It requires professional cleaning.
- Cotton (Momen): The classic fabric for yukata. It’s breathable, absorbent, and relatively easy to wash at home, making it perfect for summer.
- Wool (Uru): A durable, warm, and wrinkle-resistant fabric. Wool kimonos are considered casual and are ideal for everyday wear in the cooler autumn and winter months.
- Linen/Hemp (Asa): Crisp, breathable, and highly prized for summer wear. Linen kimonos are a bit more upscale than cotton yukata and are perfect for staying cool in humid weather.
- Polyester & Synthetics: Modern kimonos are often made from high-quality polyester. It’s a fantastic option for beginners because it’s affordable, wrinkle-resistant, and machine-washable. While it doesn’t breathe as well as natural fibers, its ease of care is a major advantage.
Setting Your Budget: New vs. Vintage
Your budget will be a major factor in your decision. Prices can range from under $50 to many thousands of dollars.
- Under $100: In this range, you’ll find new polyester yukata sets (often including a simple obi and geta sandals) or secondhand wool and synthetic kimonos. This is a great budget for your very first piece.
- $100 – $400: This tier opens up the world of high-quality vintage silk kimonos (komon, or small-pattern kimonos), new cotton yukata from good brands, and some simpler new silk pieces.
- $400+: Here you can find pristine vintage kimonos, artisan-made pieces, and new silk kimonos. Bespoke, hand-dyed kimonos can cost several thousand dollars.
How to Spot an Authentic, Quality Kimono
Authenticity can mean different things—is it handmade in Japan, or is it a well-made modern piece? Here are some clues to look for.
- Pattern Alignment: On a quality kimono, patterns should flow seamlessly across the seams, especially on the back.
- Lining: Most kimonos, except for unlined summer ones (hitoe), will have a lining. A fully lined kimono is called awase. The lining is often made of silk or cotton.
- Seams: Look at the construction. A traditional kimono has specific seam placements and is mostly hand-stitched, especially for hemming. Machine stitching is common on modern or everyday kimonos.
- Artisan Techniques: Look for signs of hand-dyeing like shibori (tie-dye), which leaves tiny, puckered dots, or yuzen (resist dyeing), which has fine, hand-painted details. These indicate a high-value, artisanal piece.
- Red Flags: Be wary of shiny, cheap satin fabrics, printed patterns that don’t align at the seams, and garments marketed as “kimono robes” that are more like lingerie or dressing gowns.
Where to Buy Your First Kimono
- New: Department stores in Japan or specialty online retailers.
- Vintage: Flea markets (especially in Japan), vintage kimono stores, and online marketplaces like Kimono Shop. Be sure to check seller reviews and measurements.
- Rental: An excellent option for a special event. Kimono rental shops are common in tourist areas in Japan and some large cities worldwide. They handle the dressing and provide all accessories.
Essential Kimono Accessories
A kimono is rarely worn on its own. You’ll need a few key items to complete the look correctly.
- Obi: The sash worn around the waist. There are many types, from the casual hanhaba obi for yukata to the formal, elaborate fukuro obi.
- Koshihimo: Thin ties used to hold the kimono in place under the obi. You’ll need at least two.
- Juban: An under-kimono. It keeps the outer kimono clean and provides a clean collar line (eri). A full-length nagajuban or a simpler two-piece version works.
- Obi-ita: A stiff board placed inside the obi to keep it from wrinkling.
- Footwear: Zori are formal sandals, while geta are wooden clogs typically worn with yukata. Always wear tabi (split-toe socks) with zori.
Simple Care and Storage
- Airing: After wearing, hang your kimono on a special kimono hanger or a straight rod in a well-ventilated, shady area for a day to air out.
- Cleaning: Polyester and cotton can often be hand-washed or machine-washed on a delicate cycle. Silk and wool must be professionally cleaned by a specialist.
- Storage: Store your folded kimono flat, wrapped in a traditional paper wrapper called a tatoshi, or a simple cotton cloth. Keep it in a drawer or box away from direct sunlight and humidity.
Kimono Shop has been a leading online provider of quality Kimono and Yukata since 19949. They offer a wide selection of colors, styles, and patterns. Whether for a man, woman, or child, sizes are available in small, large, tall, petite, plus size, big and tall, and short length. Visit the Kimono Shop online 24 hours a day. Based and operated in the USA, shipping is always quick, and service is professional.
